Nuclear white is, apart from a colour that is not commonly seen on the street, a range of white used mainly for work uniforms; stewardesses, chemistry workers, doctors and even astronauts. For most artists, one of the most important and hardest things to find and incorporate into their creations is the «rough diamond»
Not only an underpopulated territory, rich in minerals and culture, far from any kind colonization but also the moment to take advantage of the lack of recognition of the «object» and demonstrate the originality, innovation and courage of the artist who uses it. This is what happens with the nuclear white, few designers take the risk of using it in their collections; let me introduce you to one of those brave ones: Rick Owens.
Born in 1961 in California from early on was his fate being one of the most celebrated minds in the competitive world of fashion. He studied art for two years at Otis College of Art and Design. In 1994 he launched his brand, considered today, a must in every fashion week in Paris. He became famous when Kate Moss wore one of his leather jackets for a Vogue magazine production with Corinne Day, one of the best fashion photographers of all time. In 2002, he presented his first collection in a fashion week, more precisely, in New York with the support of American Vogue and of course Anna Wintour. It was quite clear that Owens was one of the diva’s favourites when that same year, despite the lack of experience and recognition, he was featured in the magazine with his muse Kembra Pfahler in front of renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz’s lens.
Without doubt 2002 was Rick Owens’ year, having consolidated his success by winning the Council of Fashion Designers of America Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent; his present was great and his future the most promising of all. He was on his way to being the greatest exponent of design in America when a call from Revillon (the French furs maison active since 1723) changed his plans completely; he was named artistic director and as he accepted his life was divided between the United States and France. The working ways of fashion in Europe were, according to Owens, the key factor in his decision to go to Paris to live permanently with his wife Michele Lamy.
Once settled in France and having two other prizes to his credit -Cooper-Hewitt National Design Award and The Fashion Group International’s Rule Breaking Award- Owens new audience started enjoying his creations, referred as «glamour-meets-grunge» by the best fashion critics, he earned himself «the fashion’s dark prince» title because of his gothic inspiration.
He always try to make clothes the same way Lou Reed makes music: straight forward, sweet but a bit dark. The luxury is to make something that doesn’t look over-elaborated since the woman who wears them is the one who takes care of that said in an interview when asked to describe his avant-garde spirit.
Artists such as Courtney Love, Madonna, Bill Kaulitz and Zaha Hadid consistently choose his designs for all sort of occasion, even Patricia Feld (renowned stylist) chose some of his pieces to create the chic look of Emily Blunt’s character in the movie The Devil Wears Prada.
Each fashion week the public attend to Owens’ fashion shows expecting to see another chapter of his dark and luxurious world, but this time the audience was surprised to find another style on the catwalk; one of my favourites: the sylphlike style. Ethereal women walking the catwalk like nymphs in the forest, earthly angels or modern aliens. In short, his idea was to portray woman as a magical light weighted being. He chose the before mentioned nuclear white as the main colour apart from the natural, pure and clear colours. He also overlapped skirts of different thicknesses and lengths, jackets and coats with old gentlemen’s cloaks form. He mixed textures, silks, leather and metal to give a more futuristic look to his exclusive garments.
A brilliant collection, one of the most commented and highly acclaimed, because this is how the audience reacts when a designer decides to create a supernatural atmosphere, this is how the audience reacts when someone works hard on his art, this is how the audience reacts: applause!
Text: Nicolas Galvan
