As a new Spring RTW season is upon us, we decided it would be a good idea to throw it back before we start drooling at the new collections.
Allow me to set the scene – it’s Paris Fashion Week, October 2015, and the runway was just stormed by ultra-sexy soldiers leaving their homes for battle – at least, that’s what it looked like at Mugler’s Spring 2016 show. David Koma’s vision for the collection was a “procession of strict and sensual rigor tinged with the romance of wartime goodbyes.” What a sentence, right? Throughout the collection, structure and rigidness is masterfully paired with simplicity, each look oozing army influence. The colour palette stayed rather neutral, not straying too far from black, white, poppy and khaki, tying the collection together wonderfully. Koma also put a sharp twist on some of the pieces, many boasting unusual cutouts which gave the collection a slightly futuristic feel. Fortunately, he still managed to keep the collection very contemporary and relevant. The continuous flow of militarism was quite clear, however, he succeeded in keeping the collection extremely feminine, despite these two being rather contradictory themes.
We all know that there is a fine line between looking like a badass and looking like an actual soldier. No one actually wants to look like they should be crawling through a trench when they wear a double-breasted khaki jacket or combat boots. If anything, we just want to give off the impression that we could hypothetically handle a little roughness and grit if need be, without looking too harsh. And, of course, Mugler made it work.
Written by Natasha Ivanovic